Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and tourists equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
A Global Honor
Recently, UNESCO honored it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of world cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a catalyst of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this time-honored city arrives as little surprise to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, bustling, and eclectic city – the capital of India's largest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has perennially characterized its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a constant discussion from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also offers the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are small establishments and stalls – little-known gems that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from 5 am at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Preserving Tradition for the Future
The city also offers special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are unwilling to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's profound food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to savour the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
