🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled high among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The little Turkish spot, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth finest restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has made the family totally astonished.

“I am totally shocked,” remarks the proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their humble shop earning such a lofty position on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its conversion into a popular destination, has retained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all down to the fare, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a tender texture.

It is then added into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are incorporated in gradually. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often consumed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, giving it a richer, toastier and more balanced profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place satisfied for below £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.